Well, we had quite enough of that rain stuff, so we figured that if we got out of the Bavarian Forest and across the border into the Czech Republic, things would improve. And they did. Just a few hours later, the sun came out.
Being sort of bohemians these days, it was inevitable that we would visit Bohemia! (Even though the original meaning of the word has been bastardised over the centuries)
Before we made our way to the campsite by the Vltava River (which starts in South Bohemia and runs all the way to Prague), near the Lipno Dam area, we headed slightly north to visit the small town of Prachatice, to see some sgraffito decorated houses. Cute enough very small and compact plaza but we would see better along the way of these two common themes in the area.
Fully showered and refreshed, the next morning, in the sunshine, we headed off to visit the relatively small town of Český Krumlov, probably the second most visited place on the Czech tourist trail after Prague. Even backpackers make it here.
It was busy, but not overly so (during the summer, it’s probably rammed). Mostly it was 5 or 6 coach loads of Asian tourists, there really weren’t that many other foreigners about.
What a beautiful place this was, a real highlight so far.
Built on a sharp s-bend of the river, it’s a very well preserved medieval town, lots of narrow streets, but with plenty of Renaissance and Baroque elements. Naturally it’s on the UNESCO list.
Filled with restaurants, hotels and touristy shops, it might have lost some of its soul now, but it still captivates.
We walked around for a good few hours but didn’t pay to go into the castle on this occasion, we’d wait to visit another one at a later date, there are too many to visit in this region so we have to be picky.
We wild-camped that night by the river again, at a popular kayaking spot, so we had fun watching people come down the river and into the rapid that was just in front of us, a few fell in, bless them! At one point, we wondered if we were in the wrong country. There was a big group of students from the USA, singing the national anthem and Country Road as they paddled towards the rapid section, they did make us giggle.
The next day, we visited Ceske Budejovice, or Budweis in German, the home of Budweiser Budvar beer (not that US muck, this is proper beer). That was the main reason for the visit, to drink a beer in one of the biggest Plazas in Europe, and a beautiful one it was too.
Being a Saturday, there was some event going on, we thought a marathon at first, and didn’t think much more of it as we continued into the town. However, after drinking our beer, walking about the place and making our way back to the van via the park where the run started, it was obvious this was a Colour Run. Everyone seemed in very high spirits and of course covered in dyes of pink, green, orange, yellow, etc.
After that, we then made a quick stop at Třeboň, another pretty little place, before camping out by one of the many fishing lakes in the area.
Sunday, we ventured a little north (the furthest north we will go in Czechia, this time around) for a few hours and enjoyed some hearty local fare, Goulash and Dumplings of course, in another very well preserved medieval town, Tábor.
After that, we made our way south again and found the best campsite yet, just outside of Jindřichův Hradec (i have no idea how you pronounce this!!) really nice setting in the countryside, excellent facilities, we’re pretty much on our own and the sun is out, all for about £9 per night. Think we’ll stay here for two/three nights.
There are many excellent places to visit in the area. Lots of Italian style towns that the ruling Habsburgs rulers had built, when they were Kings of the Bohemia or of the Holy Roman Empire. Signs that the Soviets were here are evident outside of the pretty town centres, but in between towns it’s very sparsely populated and it reminds us of driving through France, (scenery wise also) even when you do come across a small village in between the bigger towns, there is nothing going on and nobody about…
České Budějovice (Budweis)
Třeboň
Tabor
Being sort of bohemians these days, it was inevitable that we would visit Bohemia! (Even though the original meaning of the word has been bastardised over the centuries)
Before we made our way to the campsite by the Vltava River (which starts in South Bohemia and runs all the way to Prague), near the Lipno Dam area, we headed slightly north to visit the small town of Prachatice, to see some sgraffito decorated houses. Cute enough very small and compact plaza but we would see better along the way of these two common themes in the area.
Fully showered and refreshed, the next morning, in the sunshine, we headed off to visit the relatively small town of Český Krumlov, probably the second most visited place on the Czech tourist trail after Prague. Even backpackers make it here.
It was busy, but not overly so (during the summer, it’s probably rammed). Mostly it was 5 or 6 coach loads of Asian tourists, there really weren’t that many other foreigners about.
What a beautiful place this was, a real highlight so far.
Built on a sharp s-bend of the river, it’s a very well preserved medieval town, lots of narrow streets, but with plenty of Renaissance and Baroque elements. Naturally it’s on the UNESCO list.
Filled with restaurants, hotels and touristy shops, it might have lost some of its soul now, but it still captivates.
We walked around for a good few hours but didn’t pay to go into the castle on this occasion, we’d wait to visit another one at a later date, there are too many to visit in this region so we have to be picky.
We wild-camped that night by the river again, at a popular kayaking spot, so we had fun watching people come down the river and into the rapid that was just in front of us, a few fell in, bless them! At one point, we wondered if we were in the wrong country. There was a big group of students from the USA, singing the national anthem and Country Road as they paddled towards the rapid section, they did make us giggle.
The next day, we visited Ceske Budejovice, or Budweis in German, the home of Budweiser Budvar beer (not that US muck, this is proper beer). That was the main reason for the visit, to drink a beer in one of the biggest Plazas in Europe, and a beautiful one it was too.
Being a Saturday, there was some event going on, we thought a marathon at first, and didn’t think much more of it as we continued into the town. However, after drinking our beer, walking about the place and making our way back to the van via the park where the run started, it was obvious this was a Colour Run. Everyone seemed in very high spirits and of course covered in dyes of pink, green, orange, yellow, etc.
After that, we then made a quick stop at Třeboň, another pretty little place, before camping out by one of the many fishing lakes in the area.
Sunday, we ventured a little north (the furthest north we will go in Czechia, this time around) for a few hours and enjoyed some hearty local fare, Goulash and Dumplings of course, in another very well preserved medieval town, Tábor.
After that, we made our way south again and found the best campsite yet, just outside of Jindřichův Hradec (i have no idea how you pronounce this!!) really nice setting in the countryside, excellent facilities, we’re pretty much on our own and the sun is out, all for about £9 per night. Think we’ll stay here for two/three nights.
There are many excellent places to visit in the area. Lots of Italian style towns that the ruling Habsburgs rulers had built, when they were Kings of the Bohemia or of the Holy Roman Empire. Signs that the Soviets were here are evident outside of the pretty town centres, but in between towns it’s very sparsely populated and it reminds us of driving through France, (scenery wise also) even when you do come across a small village in between the bigger towns, there is nothing going on and nobody about…
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| Bye Bye Germany |
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| Prachatice |
Český Krumlov
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| If memory serves, there were only some trees in that direction... |
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| From the other side |
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| Scary window paintings |
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| Yummy cake thing |
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| We just keep finding Camino signs! |
České Budějovice (Budweis)
Třeboň
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| Schwarzenberg Tomb - A German aristocratic family. |
Tabor
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| Nice Goulash at that restuarant |
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| Sgraffito in detail, the plaster has been chiseled to create the patterns. |
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| A Great Dane at the window, of course |
